Motoring up the winding dirt path to the Happy Ranch Horse Farm, the late afternoon sun pushed through the surrounding trees in heavy, orange slats. The stamp of hooves and whinnying of horses greeted us as we turned the corner onto the ranch: a well maintained compound, artfully designed in a flare of Khmer-style architecture. Sary Pann, a squat, portly Cambodian, sporting jeans, boots and a cowboy hat, met us at the entrance to the barn. Mr. Sary, the owner of the Happy Ranch, was born and raised here in Siem Reap, but fled to the United States when the Khmer Rouge took power. In 1992 he visited Cambodia for this first time since leaving in 1975.